Three stops for Christmas

This trip was ten days long, and therefore a very daunting blog prospect. Thats just so long, not to partake in, but to write about in detail.

17

On the seventeenth, I had a morning train to Nuremberg. I was packed (a great feat - ten days, one backpack, be proud) and at the station, only to walk into the single worst travel situation ever. Snow, and LOTS of it. The entire continent damn near shut down because of a good dose of snow. The frustration has dimmed looking back, but at the time, my stress level was through the roof. And for good reason. There were hours of delays and many, many cancellations. And I experienced them all.

Now, a lesson for everyone in geography. In Atlanta, we have a humid subtropical climate. Yes, Wikipedia tells us so. Now, when one goes farther north, its gets colder. Are you with me? When its colder and there is precipitation, it snows! Gasp, we can learn new things all the time! Perhaps you're saying, everyone knows that. Well, let me correct you, everyone does not know that. Massive parts of Europe dont seem to know that. They were surprised and unprepared. I, from a location half way around the world, wasn't surprised (you know, north = cold = snow) but the officials whose job it is to know and prepare for these things, didn't know. Thats like being surprised a hurricane comes to Florida. Retarded.

The current claim is, snow doesn't come so heavily, so early in the year. But it does snow at this time of the year, and it eventually snows a lot. So why can't the railways run? Out of salt for roads and defrosting liquid at airports? ITS WINTER. Who is running this show? Its funny, until you have to go somewhere and you cant.

Ok, back to topic. On the morning of the seventeenth, there was half a centimeter of snow on the ground in Paris, and nothing stuck on the roads. Arriving at the train station, the departure and arrival boards spoke of very bad news. Trains delayed for hours. With my heavy backpack on, staring up at my train listing that would be delayed 15 minutes, 5 times, I was not feeling SNCF. The trains coming in from countries with a lot of snow, ok, but this was leaving. Fun fact: to get to Nuremberg from Paris, you must change trains in Frankfurt. As I saw there was no way I was going to make my connection, I had to have Celine put money on my cell phone because I knew the day would be filled with international calls trying to figure out a way to get to Natalie's.

Eventually, I leave Paris on my TGV. Getting situated on the train, they announce that because of the weather, the train would not be able to drive at full speed so we would be further delayed. Then they throw out that, due to problems with the train, we would have to switch trains and take a German ICE (same thing at TGV, German brand). No one was amused. After having my seat neighbor chide me for not speaking Spanish (since I'm from the states) and I couldn't translate for him, I put in ear plugs, an eye mask, and pulled a scarf over my head and slept for 2 hours. Luckily, no one was beside me so I could put my feet up. We switched trains and I start reading a novel I brought with me, the first of the Millennium series. In Frankfurt I caught a new train which miraculously connected with my original train, even though we were something like an hour and a half late. The train was so packed, that there were no seats at all open. So I did what any reasonable person would do, I went to the bar.

I made a few fast friends and ended up with a free lunch and a beer big enough to put me in a way better mood. Shout out to my train buddies, thank you gentlemen.

Eventually I arrived. Natalie was still driving across Germany so her mother and brother graciously picked me up. The snow in southern Germany was easy a foot high. HOW EXCITING!

Beat it just came on, I had to stop for a dance break.

When Natalie arrived, she brought a surprise, Susie!!! We had dinner then got dressed to go out. I tried out my new shoes, which I had bought to be waterproof (which they were! unfortunately, they were not warm). We first went to Forchheim to the Christmas market and had a gluhwein. Which is made from red wine, heated and spiced with cinnamon sticks, vanilla pods, cloves, citrus and sugar. I was wary, but it was good! I dont like red wine, but I liked the good gluhweins. Our next stop was Erlangen. We stopped by the Christmas market there as well but it was mostly closed. Here, we had the worst gluhwein ever. It was pretty much undrinkable and it frightened me away from gluhwein for several days.

We then went to Havana club for cocktails and then to a club. This club sucked, and eventually we went home. Boo for Erlangen.

18

The next day we had the most insane spread of food for breakfast ever. I feel full just from the memory. Then we decked out in snow gear. Serious snow gear. We grabbed a sled and were off. We had a snow ball fight that lasted for hours and sometimes got quite dirty. We also stopped to see some goats on the way to the hill. Oh, this is also where I wore a pair of Natalie's snow boots and learned how AMAZING they are. The snow was so deep and we went sledding on a huge hill. The sled would go so fast it was scary and going back up the hill was a serious work out! Snow fun is the best fun.

Back at the house, we packed to spend the night in Nuremberg and dressed to go out. We first arrived at a friend of the girls : Sabrina and had a drink at her place. Then we grabbed a cab to the city center and the Nuremberg Christmas Market. This market is the most famous in the world and its huge! For those unaware, Christmas markets are outdoor awesomeness that occur throughout December. Originating from Germany, they are held in the town center squares and and made of many stalls. They sell hot drinks, food, and goods. Usually, its a lot of shopping but even more gluhwein drinking. And the food is very good as well.

While the girls had a gluhwein (I was still in the grip of fear caused by the Erlangen one), I walked around the market looking at all the shops and taking pictures. Even found an Atlanta stall in the world cities section! The markets are gorgeous because everything is decked out in christmas lights. Its really cool. I said earlier today that they combined many things I like into one place : sparkle, shopping, alcohol, food, and people. What a very nice custom! We had some lebkuchen, which is a tradiotional German spiced gingerbread.

Once we were freezing we went to have tapas for dinner, then to a bar to kill some time before heading to a club. This club is worth noting. Walking in, it was so nice. This place was like a movie set. Even more so, because the level of good looking in this place was ridiculous. Everyone was so pretty. The girls wore, like, nothing (recall its FREEZING outside). Unfortunately, there was quite an attitude running around this place. Kind of the, I'm gods gift to man attitude. But the Dj was good, we had drinks and danced, it was fun.

19

The next morning we drove back to Natalie's place. After a shower, some breakfast, and the arrival of a boy Susie was interested in, we left for Bamberg. We hung around the Christmas market and then Natalie, a friend, and myself had a hot chocolate in a cafe and a snack. This evening we went out to dinner with Natalie's mother and brother. And as a night cap, Natalie and I watched Sea-biscuit. And damn, that movie is so inspirational!

20

After breakfast this morning, I was off to the train station. I had a two trains that would take me to Zerbst and Sascha, a German friend from France. Leaving Nuremberg, things looked good, my train left on time! Had the country prepared for the continued snow? Bustling along, all of a sudden the train came to a stop in the middle of no where. And sat there for an hour. I watched the minutes cruise by as I missed my connection with the delay. When I arrived at my switch point, I find out that I have to wait 30 minutes for the next train, in the cold. Brrr, it was very cold. So, when the time comes, I go to the platform and the train just doesn't show up. I call Sascha, he looks, and says the train has been cancelled, and I will have to wait another hour for the train. In the midst of this conversation, my phone runs out of charge. It was freezing, i had to wait another hour, and I had no way to communicate with anyone. I cried.

I went into the cafe at the station and had a hot chocolate and read for the next hour. Having a 600 page book with me was a lifesaver. The next train showed up! and I finally reached Sascha's place. We had some dinner then headed off to Magdeburg to meet some friends of his at the Christmas market. This one, was the best market of them all. Which is controversial since the Nuremberg one kinda holds that title. But this one was huge. And it was also practically a fair. And it had a special middle age market. There were all kinds of interactive things at this one : glass blowing, blacksmiths, musicians, and SPACE HEATERS. No lie, if it only had the space heaters and fires it would win as the best one. We had enough gluhwein. It was a fun night.

21

Sascha and I headed back to Magdeburg after breakfast. We visited the church, had lunch, and did a ton of shopping. Well, Sascha did alot of shopping, I did a lot of snow show hunting. I also bought some presents after Sascha told me he could bring them back to France for me ( I couldn't buy anything because I had an easy jet flight to Belgium). After much unsuccess with snow shoe hunting, I finally found a pair of uggs. Offbrand and grey. I did it. I realize that I have made fun of them for years. But I now understand, when you have to be outside in the snow all day, snow shoes are AWESOME. I love them, best purchase ever, I dont care how silly I look, its like walking around with a personal foot heater. Rock on snow shoes, rock on.

We then went to the Christmas market again, but this time we were able to really look at the stalls. It was great. We had some food and, of course, some gluhwein.

22

As a side note, talk about frustration, I just accidentally deleted something like 6 paragraphs. While I never mind writing, I do mind writing the same thing twice. I really wish I had had typing class along with everyone else in high school, I am terrible, if I had a scanner, I would hand write these and then post the pages.

Ok, this day was a laid back, relaxing day. I spent the morning checking emails and doing quite a bit of reading. Eventually, Sascha calls me and we sent off across the street to the park. Sascha hands me a big bag of bread pieces and I am thrilled to hear we will be feeding the ducks. It might be the Peachtree City in me, but I love feeding ducks! Walking over to a small bridge over a creek, the ducks came running. And there were so many of them! Easily 30. What made is so much fun was that these ducks were so personal. They would come right up to us ad eat out of our hands. I particularly liked the feeling of their feet stepping on mine. I found feel their little steps through my snow shoes. They would even jump up to get the food, in the same way a dog will. Maybe it was the fresh, clean snow they were playing in, but these ducks were so cute! If I was brave and fast enough, I could even pet them. Sadly, we eventually ran out of food and they were done with us, those fair weather friends.

We continued our walk through the park and it was lovely. The pictures are not so impressive because they just look white. A few minutes into the walk, I asked what the massive, destroyed stone structure was on the hill near the park. Sascha explained to me that it was the cities old castle and it was bombed in WWII. Two wings of the castle were completely torn down for the building materials badly needed after the war was over. With the sheer size of the building, it was easy to imagine its previous splendor. Not more than 5 minutes later, leaving the park and walking into the edge of town, we run into a half built church. It was also bombed in the war and the town only rebuilt a portion of it. Leaving the walls and support beams of the rest to make a sort of courtyard. I have heard several times in the past about how many ruins of the war were left as reminders. The war had never seemed so real to me, despite having heard hundreds of stories from my grandfather, a veteran (coincidentally a navigator on bomber jets), standing amidst the aftermath of a war is different. Even so many years later. I make no conclusions or excuses, and I lay no blame, but its nothing but tragic what happened to parts of Germany from bombing. These were not railroads transferring supplies or armories, these were homes and churches. But everyone knows that all is not fair in love and war. That saying is retarded.

We ended our walk with a lighter note through the town. Stopping in a toy store, I found the weirdest kitchenette toy accessory ever. A deep fryer. I kid you not. Not only is that a terrible toy to promote to children (we will make fatties) but how is that a normal kitchen accessory? I dont have one.

Later in the day, we went to a town over to to meet up with Sascha's sister, have coffee, and do some more shopping . . . (By the way, I have already promised myself a shopping spree when I get back in the states! I can't wait to be back on the dollar! I will be able to shop!) We stepped outside the mall to the local Christmas market because I had decided on another gift I would buy. And we ran into Santa! And Santa spoke English! While I was considering what I wanted to ask for for Christmas, he inquired about whether Sascha and I were dating. Thats a weird Santa question. When we said no, we were just friends, he tells Sascha to just give it some time! Haha, ridiculous. And he never asked me what I wanted for Christmas! Epic fail, but we did take a dashing photo.

23

I spent the last few hours of my stay with Sascha trying to pack all of my stuff into my back pack. I also helped Sascha begin to decorate their Christmas tree.

I had three trains to the Berlin airport, and by an amazing stroke of luck, they were all pretty much on time! I arrived at the airport on time. But thats about where normal ended.

The airport had been transformed to a camp ground, due to all the cancelled and greatly delayed flights, every chair was filled and people lined the walls. Sleeping, eating, entertaining children; the airport was a mess. As I walked around waiting for my flight to be announced, I began to be worried that I would join the masses and have a delayed or cancelled flight. But they announced my flight! We boarded on time! And then we sat on the runway for an hour. I guess some things are too good to be true.

Landing in Brussels, Celine picked me up and we caught up as we voyaged across the country by train to her parent's house. ( By the way, it takes something like 2 hours to travel across the country of Belgium from the farthest points.) Her fantastic dad picked us up at the train station and it was a short drive through the town to their house.

That evening we drank wine and champagne, snacked on hor d'oeuvres and talked til late by the fire. Their house is gorgeous and decorated with the eye of an expert, Celine's mom. Honestly, somebody should call cribs, its phenomenal.

24

Since it had been snowing since forever, Celine, Julia (her sister) and I decked out in warm clothes and snow shoes to talk a walk through the town. We stopped at a cafe in the park for a hot chocolate and then went to the children's zoo in the park.

We then walked through the city center. Taking a tour and on a relentless hut for an open fry stand. French fries being the national dish of Belgium - they are supposed to be crazy good. However, turns out they all closed for Christmas eve. With a stop at the grocery store we went back to the house and got into the Christmas spirit by watching the Grinch. (The new one, not the original.) Celine's immediate family started arriving and Christmas dinner began. From hor d'oeuvres to a full meal -> we ate for a long time! The family exchanged gifts throughout the courses and I was very surprised to be handed a few presents of my own. Totally unexpected, they did just what they were intended to do, make me feel like it was my Christmas too, instead of me just sitting in on someone else's celebration. In fact, everyone I stayed with made me feel so welcome, despite the fact that I was surely inconveniencing everyone by staying so close to or during the holidays.

25

Waking up for the first time on Christmas anywhere but Atlanta turned out not to be so strange after all. I think because I know I will be going home soon, its not so big of a deal. We spent the afternoon playing cards and watching tv. The big family get together was going to be at Celine's aunts later in the evening.

We dressed for Christmas (plus snow boots) and Celine, her dad, and I went for a walk. We went through the beautiful park as well as the town. We stopped by the same cafe from the day before and had a few beers, a few highly recommended Belgium beers for myself. The bartender wanted me to take a good impression home. Then we walked across town via the canal toward Celine's aunts house. This walk was enjoyable and even hilarious at times. Lets be fair -> I can't walk in snow or ice. I slip, stumble, and fall a lot. This is well known and easily comprehended. Well, at one point on our journey, we decided to take a short cut up an embankment, easily 20 feet high. And this steep hill had something like a foot of snow on it. I fell three times, the last two with a helping hand. Three times. It was hilarious. Embarrassing as Celine's dad practically carried me up, but funny.

Christmas dinner was great, everyone was super nice and we spent the evening chatting and playing cards.

26

Celine took me to Antwerp where I was to catch the bus to Paris. Right as we got off the train, we found a fry stand! I was very excited, this was a long time coming! And the fries were very good. I had then with mayonnaise (the normal way) and well as with ketchup. The mayonnaise is different than the US mayonnaise by the way. It has more flavor and makes a better dip than ours would. We then walked around the city while waiting for my bus.

I took a nap on the bus and then read all the way to Paris. This was quite an accomplishment considering the bus ride was the absolute spitting image of hell. A woman sat in front of me and leaned her seat back all the way into my face. There were no less than 3 crying babies. They played a terrible movie badly dubbed into French LOUDLY. And, the bathroom was out of service. We would occasionally stop at a rest stop or a gas station for everyone to use the toilet.

I had already finished 2 books on this trip, but Celine was kind enough to lend me the seventh Harry Potter. I read more than half of it. I love Harry Potter, its so good!

So thats a decent description of my Christmas holidays. Back in Paris I have been museum hopping since its free with my residence permit. And I have also been doing some shopping. Tomorrow is New Years Eve so we will see how that goes. Unfortunately, Paris doesn't have a big public event with fireworks or anything. But I am sure we will figure something out.

Kerry

Ps. See you soon!!!